So with Ice Axe in one hand I put the camera away and finished my slog up to the pass. Funny thing how nature likes to play tricks. As I got to the perceived top of the pass it turned out to be a false ridgeline - just more talus to climb over to the top. How disappointing that moment was. I had expected a grand view of Lake Catherine only to find more work in front of me. By now everyone else had gotten to the lake and I was the slow one coming over the pass. As I poked my head over to have my first view there is Peter. He had returned to the pass from the campsite just to check on me, not an easy feat given the effort already spent during the hike in. As soon as I saw him I put my arms in the air and yelled "Peter" with glee. He was the high Sierra welcoming committee standing on the pass. What a great guy; I did some rough calculations and found that about one in a million would show that kind of teamwork and caring. Thank you Peter!

With that we scrambled down and across to the our nights campsite. My legs were rubber at this point.

A view of North Glacier Pass  (upper left) from camp above Lake Catherine

Kathy and Peter had found a nice camp site, which are few at the lake. From our rocky perch we had tremendous views that money cannot buy. Sometimes you just have to work for it and suddenly it was all worthwhile. Then in the believe it or not world, I learned that Harry and Charles had departed to go tag Mount Davis, about a mile and one half and 1,300 feet away. All I could do is lay down on the rock for the first hour and these guys are peak bagging. If they ever have a Tour de France in the Sierra I can tell you that Harry and Charles will be wearing yellow jerseys!

The rocky bluff campsite above the lake

After resting my bones for a while I got up to take in the views. The glacier up the the Ritter-Banner saddle was as picturesque as it gets. My mind was anxious to climb it - my body was sending me another message altogether. Not to worry, we had lots of time to rest until the next day.

Banner (L) and Ritter (R) above Lake Catherine

Prior to our arrival it was clear that Harry would be taking a route around the west side of Ritter to summit it. Charles would go with Harry. The other three of us were contemplating different routes. I had thought the class three route up the north face of Ritter would be a grand climb. But on day two, climb day, things were different. I was just too spent from our speedy hike in to consider Ritter at all. Kathy had suggested ascending the glacier and summiting Banner instead, the easier of the two peaks. So Peter, Kathy and I prepared our packs for an ascent via the glacier to Banner while Harry and Charles took a route around Ritter for their summit bid.

Kathy, Harry and Peter on the rock discussing summit options early on August 27, 2006

As we were shaking hands and passing along best wishes to Harry and Charles, Peter arrived with some news about the glacier. He said it was too icy for a safe climb since it was so early in the morning and the sun had not yet softened the ice. Peter has much experience, if he says it is risky then I believe him. One misstep or slip without an immediate arrest with an ice axe high on the glacier un-roped would probably be the last misstep anyone would take. Even though I was ready to go the news was bad for my spirit but welcomed by my sore legs. I called it a day and decided to pack out.

Peter describing the unsafe condition of the glacier

There is always that moment where the mind tries to overrule the body, knowing that getting back to the same spot, with the same perfect weather, with equally skilled people seems unlikely at best. After all, humping it all the way in to throw in the towel is not an easy decision - but common sense seems to prevail and the mountain will always be there for another day.

A hard fought decision to bail

In the mean time Kathy and Peter had reconsidered their options. Maybe wait it out a little and let the sun warm up the glacier while they circumnavigate the lake to get to it? They decided to push on after all - perhaps re-assess safety when getting to the glacier. I headed back to camp to pack my gear and head out - solo. After packing I made the talus hop towards the pass. About half way up a refrigerator sized boulder moved unexpectedly beneath my feet, sending me in directions completely unintended (uh, that means I fell). Thankfully, my pack took the blow on the rocks and not my back. All I have to show for it is a dented left shin (whew). About the time I regained my composure and started ascending again, I could here Peter's voice from across the lake. I could not understand what he was saying, other than hearing my name "Shawn". It took me a few minutes to observe Peter and Kathy on the other side of the lake, thankfully they appeared fine, as hearing Peter's first call out to me made me think something might have gone wrong.

Spotting Peter and Kathy on the opposite side of the lake

I yelled back to Peter, but to no avail. I just wasn't able to understand what he said with the echoes in the rocky bowl above the lake. It did seem as though he said "back", so I figured they had decided to head back to camp. As I watched it became evident that they indeed were working their way to camp and not to the glacier.

Kathy (L) and Peter (R) returning

As I got to the top of the pass I waited for a while, unsure if Kathy and Peter would be heading out on this day or not. I already knew that Charles and Harry would stay another night if needed, something I was trying to avoid if possible. After staying on the pass for a period of time, I decided to move on uncertain about Kathy and Peter's plans.